The Sail

Overall, we had excellent sailing weather, favorable winds, and no major problems. Our boats were ready and waiting for us when we arrived, the anchorage's were all like a little piece of paradise, and the people were amazing friendly. Below, we describe the sailing experience as recorded in our journals. When we arrived in Auckland we were met at the airport by Mark Cressey from Chart Link of Auckland. After the paperwork, we headed north for four hours to Opua, where they had positioned the boats for our departure. Mark was very helpful prior to the trip. During the trip he was very helpful in making arrangements for transportation and accommodations during our subsequent ground adventure.

The Bay of Islands and Waipoua Kauri Forest are an area of great natural beauty. The Maritime and Historic Park includes 38 different sites extending from Mimiwhangata Bay in the south to Whangaroa Harbor in the north. Marked walks range from 10 minutes to 10 hours includes hikes around islands, historical sites, and the Mimiwhangata Marine Park.

Opua is a quaint, small town with a grocery conveniently located nearby. After some final provisioning we had our gear and food securely stowed with a couple hours of sunlight left and we were interested in a quiet, secluded anchorage. We were ready to get under way in about an hour and headed north to the town of Russell. We discovered a small secluded bay complete with beach surrounded by rugged hills and well protected from the wind. After dinner we all retired a little early as we had been traveling for over 32 hours after a full day of work. Early the next morning we headed across the bay to the town dock of Russell where we explored the town and shops.

Russell is a beautiful little town on the water of a large island in the southern part of the Bay of Islands. In a word, it is picturesque with little shops selling bread, art, and antiques. Other little shops provide the yachtsman with basic provisions. Although the town is a little touristy, it is not very accessible to there are not large numbers of tourists that visit the town. We found the town dock very convenient and accessible to the town center. I got a painting and a photograph of the artist. As we walked back to our boats we passed the beach by the town front that looked identical to the paintings that we had just bought. We spent a moments in the tranquil setting pondering the significance of the world's problems and then moved on. In the early afternoon we departed for Paihia where we would visit the estate and museum.

Paihia is the main town and was settled by Europeans as a mission station in 1823. The missionary zeal has been replaced with excellent shops, accommodations, and entertainment. It's a happening place. Waitangi National Reserve was built in 1832 as the home of British Resident James Busby and was the location for the historic signing of the Treaty of Waitangi (eight years later Maori chiefs accepted British sovereignty). The estate is beautiful with a lawn running down to the bay. A road climbs to Mt. Bledisloe with panoramic views of the bay and easy access to mangrove forests and awesome water falls. The entrance to the harbor is quite shallow so we anchored off-shore and dinghied in. Haruru Falls are very attractive and photogenic. They are easily accessible via the walkway through the Waitangi National Reserve. At the foot of the falls is good swimming. The round-trip hike was estimated to be a couple hours which was more than we had time if we wanted to make our afternoon sail. So, we skipped the falls and departed in the late afternoon for Marsden Cross.

The winds in the mid afternoon were five to ten knots from the northeast. We were able to sail for a good part of the way to our evening destination which was only a few miles. We were crossing the Bay of Islands to the northern shore where we would find a small cove sheltered by the wind by some tall mountains and protected by the sea swells which were slight. We anchored in about sixteen feet of water with plenty of room to swing in case the wind shifted. The bottom was sand and mud with some rocks near shore. We had dinner on board as there was no civilization ashore.

Marsden Cross... Early in the morning we went to shore for a hike. We first came upon Marsden Cross and some small commemorative plaques. There was a dirt road that lead up the valley to the north with rolling hills on either side. Our hike took us past some cows grazing in the fields and to a ridge that overlooked the bay in which we were anchored. The panoramic views of the Bay of Islands to the south were most beautiful. We continued hiking along the ridge back towards our yachts. It was a most pleasant early morning hike. We returned to our boats for breakfast and a leisurely sail south to the beautiful island of Motuarohia. The winds started at about fifteen knots and the seas were slight. We only needed to make a few tacks on our way and the winds increased to eighteen to twenty knots. Our speed was about seven knots and the sail was about an hour and a half. Our anchorage was protected from the wind and the bottom was good holding in sand. Lots of photo opportunities. Atop the highes hill we chose to make a fashion statement with bright colored clothes imported from the British Virgin Islands. From our vantage point we could quickly spot any native not conforming to our strict dress code and provide the appropriate disciplinary action. We found an abundance of color coordinated cows and other livestock that greatly appreciated our tireless efforts. The natives often stared with envy as our entourage travelled by.

Motuarohia Island... Our next destination was just a lunch stop. The anchorage was in a bay the shape of a half moon surrounded by a beautiful white sand beach. There were a couple other boats in the anchorage but otherwise secluded. We had a leisurly lunch and then dinghied to shore and was met by the guardian of the island demanding that we return to our ships at once. He was a nimble warrier armed only with a Cassio watch and reef shoes. My crew retreated at once for fear of their lives while I advanced slowly. Noting that I, too, had a Casio watch we immediately became friends and he gave us all a tour of the island. We climbed to the top of a hill with extraordinary views of the Bay of Islands in all directions and a great view of our boats in the anchorage. The weather was very clear and the visibility was perhaps thirty miles. We only saw one estate on the island perched on a cliff with an amazing view of the rocky shore. Opposite, was our anchorage framed by the beach and wooded shore on either side. Though we wanted to stay, we had more beaches to see and islands to explore. Next, we sailed to Moturua Island.

We then sailed to Moturua Island to the east where we tried to anchor in hard mud and rock. Only one boat was successful in getting a good set so we all decided to go around the corner to a cove with a white sand beach surrounded by tall hills. It was better protected form the wind and very picturesque. The seas were slight and the anchorage very comfortable. Early the next morning we went to shore and hiked the route described in the guide. We next set sail for Motuarohia Island which also turned out to be another piece of paradise, well protected, and sheltered from the wind.

Moturua Island... Like many of the islands in the Bay of Islands, Moturua Island is one of great archeological significance in addition to most excellent beaches, anchorages, and hiking trails. Our first challenge was to get the group to shore. The dinghies were small though our crews brave. Our group was dinghied to shore a few at a time. Luckily, the distance to travel from the boats to shore was short and it was not long before our group was assembled on the beach. Once ashore, we found Dr. Science who was quick to discover ancient artifacts along the beach and describe its origin and significance to the evolution of the native culture. Moturua is now being left to regenerate to native bush and in the moist valleys regeneration is happening quite rapidly. Young pohutukawas abound all along the coast and are particularly prevalent on the track up to Hikurangi Pa. Birdlife on the island is varied and moreporks can often be seen. Kiwis have been liberated by the park and thrive in the bush of Moturua. We set out on a hike along the trails noting that they were not well travelled by our standards though likely to be considered a busy tourist attraction by the locals. We found that the island was unspoiled and very beautiful. Our hike took us all the way around the island, up hills, down hills, along the beaches and rocky shoreline. Moturua is the second largest in the Bay of Island and has provided fresh water and shelter to early travellers. The walking track takes about two hours to complete and passes four of the island's sandy beaches and there are panoramic views of the bay. The island is part of the national park system called scenic reserves. These reserves have preserved the archaeology from the early settlers and have provided few placards describing the sites. The natives would build a "pa" which referred to any major Maori settlement though is used in archaeology to refer to any fortified site. These sites included primitive types of defense such as installing ditches across main access routes; building on a hilltop and making steep terraces around the slopes; building steep ridges (like a wall) around the village; and, combinations of these techniques. building upon a hill or ridge

Urupukapuka Island was difficult to pronounce at first but soon rolled off our tongues like like we were native. There are many sandy beaches with clear water. The diving on the east coast is particularly good since there is a lot of reef life. There are many secluded bays that are perfect for picnics. The archaeological features of the island are interesting because of the diversity of sites and their good state of preservation. There are trails with on-site signs that describe many of the pre-European sites. The whole walk takes about five hours though it can be divided in half. There is a pamphlet that describes the island sites. We found that the trails were easy to follow over the rolling hills. The views of the bay of islands were spectacular as this island (I was trying to avoid spelling "Urupukapuka") is centrally located. The anchorage was nestled between the hills and well protected from the wind and sea. The hiking was an excellent workout.

Whangamumu Bay is a place of peace and serenity. It is a combination of scenic beauty and gentle reminders of days past. During out visit we were able to observe two pre-historic Maori natives dressed as modern-day sailors hiding in the grass. The nearby native bush includes tanekaha, cabbage trees and nikau palms. The bay is excellent for swimming. The site is of historical value, notable for its two large pas on the ridgeline south of the harbour. At the whaling station the remains of vats, a boiler and two concrete slipways are still visible. Whangamumu was famous for the extensive whaling operations as they hunted humpback whales.

Mimiwhangata Bay contains some of the most attractive coastline of eastern Northland. Its offshore islands, rocky headlands, sandy beaches, coastal dunes and pohutukawa-studded cliffs are enhanced inland from the coastal strip of dozens of archaeological sties, large tracts of native bush containing kiwis, farmland, streams and wetlands with increasing numbers of the rare brown teal. There are several islands and reefs that surround the Mimiwhangata peninsula. The coas5tlie is rich in marine life, and provides a wide range of dexcllent diving opportunities, as well as interesting rocky shores to explore.

Tutukaka is a small fishing town that hosts an annual tornament during the second week of March - the time that we arrived. All the boat slips were reserved and we were only able to spend a few hours at dock. We were able to get fuel and water and wash our clothes after a week of sailing. It was the first place that we came to where there were facilities, restaurants, and grocery stores. We took real showers. Cool! In the late afternoon we moved our yachts to the anchorage and returned by dinghy and a borrowed car to the dock where we observed the fishing boats come back from their day at sea. Many large fish were brought to dock and weighed. Meanwhile, We had a most excellent dinner at the marina restaurant and enjoyed a peaceful and relaxing evening.

Great Barrier Island is about 56 miles from the mainland and is the largest island in the Hauraki Gulf. The most popular activities include hiking, swimming, boating, and fishing. There are only 1000 inhabitants on the island with 110 square miles and plenty of open space. Just a few miles to the west of the entrace to Port Fitzroy we encountered a large school of dolphin. They were headed north while we were headed east. A few of the dolphin would play in our bow wave and occasionally bump up against the bow. They would travel in small groups and often swim in unison. They practiced synchronized jumping out of the water the way dolphins do in the movies. Port Fitzroy was our second choice for an anchorage as we tried to find a good spot in the next bay over but had difficulty. Fitzroy was a quiet, beautiful harbor with limited facilities. It is well protected from winds and seas from all directions except from the west. The wind that night was from the west and it exceeded 35 knots at times. The next day we went for a morning hike up the nearby mountain and discovered most excellent views of our yachts. The hike was less than an hour and the trail was well travelled. The weather was pleasant and the visibility was unlimited. As we looked inland we saw many taller mountains and wish we only had time for longer hikes. Hiking on the island is very popular among world travelers. The hike down was easy and our next destination was the waterfalls which was a half hour by road and then another half hour on the trail. Again, we found the trail to be well travelled and quite scenic. When we arrived at the falls we found an artist painting a young lady (not painting her but a portrait of her). Tom went wading while doug went for a swim. The water was cool. The next day several people went for a hike to the hot springs. The trail was a bit muddy though it was well travelled. Many of the island have hot springs because of the amount of geothermal activity. Most of the hot springs are off the beaten trail and require hiking between a half hour and two hours. It is well worth the hike because the trails are excellent and the springs are fun and relaxing. One day we found a stingray swimming in the water near the dock. The dockmaster said that the stingray had been seen there often and apparently comes there to feed. We observed it swimming in very shallow water. It's diameter was about three feet. We have often seen stingrays in the Caribbean but this was the first time we spotted one in the South Pacific.

Rotorua (central North Island) is famous for thermal activity (boiling water, hissing steam, bubbling mud pools) and the Maori culture (night-time Maori concerts and a Hangi). Nearby Waitomo Caves, on the way to Rotorua, are limestone caverns with stalactites and stalagmites and a glow-worm grotto. Black Water Rafting is a particular thrill. The Tongario National Park has some of the best mountain/volcano scenery in the country and excellent hiking trails. We returned the boats on Friday morning leaving almost two days to tour the northern island by road. We rented a very large passenger van and drove from Auckland to Rotorua. Our first stop was the Marriott where there was a native show. It was well done and worth the time and money. Early the next day (okay, late morning) we went on our own to explore the geothermal activity. It is important not to wander off the marked trails because the ground will not necessarily support the weight of a human. Many vent holes and hot springs are scattered throughout the area. The hotels have brochures and are helpful in recommending a geothermic location based on the amount of walking that you are interested in doing. We found that within 45 minutes walk there was a good amount of geothermal activity to be seen. While hiking along the paths at the geothermal tourist areas the vents in the nearby valleys would spew forth steam and sulpher gas. The whole town and country side smelled like sulpher and was quite unpleasant at first though the odor became less intense with beer and other alcoholic beverages.

Queenstown (South Island) is a resort town with genteel boat trips on the lake, visits to sheep stations, shooting rapids upstream in jet-boats or downstream in inflatables, and excellent walking trips. Jet boating has become tremendously popular on the Shotover and Kawarau rivers. Queenstown is a paradise for adventure seekers. The South Island Alps rise steeply, almost from sea level and the Mount Cook National Park contains all but five of the twenty-seven peaks in New Zealand over 9,750 feet tall.

The Milford Track is considered one of the "finest walks in the world." It is unique to New Zealand. The highlights include beautiful views from the Mackinnon Pass, the 630 meter Sutherland Falls, the rain forest, and crystal clear streams full of fat trout. The hike can only be done in one direction, from Lake Te Anau to Milford. A park permit is required and must be booked as far as a year in advance. It is a four day hike with huts along the way so all you carry is your personal gear. The $600 cost includes a boat ride, hotel stays at the beginning and end of the hike, comfortable sleeping accommodations with food prepared each night. Approximate hiking distance each day is about ten miles. Other hikes are also available options.

Parties of about 40 people leave Te Anau several times weekly during the season (November to April). Accommodation while on the trek is in staffed lodges with comfortable bunkrooms. The trek is divided into sectors, varying from 10 to 15 miles. On leaving the lodge in the morning, trekkers set their own pace, usually travelling in small groups. One guide follows and another awaits the party at the lunch stop. Some trekkers will complete the day's stage by early afternoon; those preferring a more leisurely passage arrive several hours later. After dinner there is a shor tbriefing session with the remainder of the evening being free for social activities.

From our journal...

Tuesday 12 March: Milford Track depart at 7:45 am from Queenstown. Fly to Te Anau and check in at the Milford Track Office. Take group photo. Ride coach to Te Anau Downs and board a launch - cruise to Glade House at the head of Lake Te Anau. The Milford Track starts here. Wednesday 13 March: Beautiful scenery. Lots of birds and wildlife. The guides are very knowledgable about the history, geography, and wildlife. After leaving Glade House, we crossed the Clinton River and walked through beautiful beech forests before lunch at Hirere Falls. From the grassy plain known as the Prairie, there is a spectacular view of Clinton Canyon and the Mackinnon Pass. It's a rocky climb to Marlenes Creek and onto Pompolona Lodge for a hot shower and a hearty meal. Thursday 14 March: The views today are awesome ... the St. Quintin Falls, Avalanche Creek, Mirror Lake and Lake Mintaro. The Mackinnon Pass is reached by a series of long zigzags. The scenery just keeps on coming: Mount Balloon, the sheer Jervois Glacier, Roaring Burn, Morraine Creek and the Arthur Valley rain forest. From the Quintin Hut, it's just a short hop to the Sutherland Falls. Friday 15 March: It's mostly downhill from here. The view of Bell Rock, Mackay Falls, the dramatic Giant's Gate Waterfall and Lake Ada was as awesome as they said. From Sandfly Point, we took a short boat ride to the Milford Sound Hotel and had a final gathering and party. Saturday 16 March: Today was easy - we had a Red Boat cruise on Milford Sound. We saw Lady Bowen Falls beneath towering Mitre Peak which rises sheer from the sea.

We now departed for Queenstown arriving at 12 noon and the airport at 1:00 pm. Departed on Air New Zealand for Rotorua but was diverted because of weather. They provided a bus ride to Rotorua, arrived an hour and a half late, and met up with the rest of our group.

Other Activities

We had time for bungi jumping and a helicopter ride to sight see and briefly visit the top of a glacier.

Bungi Jumping... Was first performed by Tony and then a week later by Anton. On a bridge, 360 feet above the water that is only a few feet deep, the bungi masters first clips in and then secures a harness around the feet of the fool that wants an ultimate rush. Next, the fool jumps off and the bungi masters watch and score the various aspects of the jump. Some people are scared silly, but Tony was brave because his wife, Katy, was video taping it for all to see later at our picture party.

Jet Boat Ride... The Jet Boats are shallow draft vessels whose engine shoots a stream of highly compressed water out the rear thus propelling it forward.

Speeds in excess of 40 mph up narrow, windy rivers with spectacular scenery in remote areas of the South Island were experienced by four of our adventurers.

Helicopter...

The People

John Beck is an avid sailor and sailing instructor with the American Sailing Association (in addition to a "day" job). Throughout the year he leads several sailing flotillas and instructional workshops throughout the world. He takes great pride in the unique sailing adventures as they set the standard for the Club's awesome and incredible theme with a very high degree of satisfaction. John is also an accomplished pilot, skier, biker, hiker, and all around adventure junkie.

Nabi Rafie was (and is) very enthusiastic about sailing. Although he recently became a sailor, he has a natural aptitude and is very skilled at working all the positions on deck. He is an excellent helms person and has taken to navigation with accurate, clear charting throughout our trip. Nabi sets the standard for consideration and adeptness - he was enjoyable to share a yacht and an excellent cook. He is a pleasure to have aboard. Already, we are making plans to sail New Zealand and other world-class cruising areas.

Cathy Lavelle first boarded a boat and also first experienced the South Pacific islands on this trip. She was amazed at the beauty of the islands, the comfort aboard the boat, and the company of the other crew members. She immediately made friends with everyone and helped make life aboard a special experience. Cathy is looking forward to learning more about sailing and exploring the world from the sea.

Dick Machol is an enthusiastic sailor with one week of sailing lessons in the Caribbean and now two additional weeks in New Zealand. He has a passion for exploring new places from the sea and enjoys sharing a brief "life at sea" with his two daughters. As an executive in real life, Dick enjoys the organized and quality experience while he looks forward to learning so he can someday give orders (he'd be good at this). The combination of travel, discovery, and learning gives him pleasure. Dick's next focus will be on learning navigation.

Karen Machol is a natural sailor with a unique ability to perform almost any task after a brief introduction. After one week sailing lessons, she eagerly participating in all aspects of sailing, including steering, working the sails, and anchoring. Karen was impressed by the natural beauty of the untouched islands, hiking on uninhabited islands, and exploring the remote islands, beaches, and forests.

Kathleen Machol is a most charming person who enjoys sailing and exploring. Her greatest asset is a unique culinary skill that wins friends worldwide and makes her welcome on every sailing trip. She enjoys the total experience along with the evening social, party, and dancing opportunities.

Tony Frissora joined our Thanksgiving sail four years ago and met his wife Katy during the voyage. The next year, Tony skippered one of our boats and during Thanksgiving dinner in some God forgotten islands he proposed to Katy Badt. They married a year later and continue to skipper during our Thanksgiving sails. Tony is a very talented sailor and enjoys racing in the summers in New Jersey. Both Katy and Tony work for AT&T and love the sea. They both have become good friends and traveling companions to many of the people who joined his boat this year. Both Tony and Katy do an excellent job organizing their boat activities and everyone always has a good time when aboard. Katy has been sailing with the Club for as long as the Club has been sailing big yachts. She is always helpful with organizing for the whole group and providing input and feedback to the planning and operation of the flotillas.

Mary Sclafani likes to experience a variety of adventures and has joined several other sailing trips in the Caribbean and Greek Islands. She is the perfect explorer who easily gets excited about new places and interesting cultures.

Sharon DeVries joined our sailing trip last November in the Caribbean where she discovered the great lifestyle aboard and the strikingly beautiful islands and cultures. She provides a unique perspective to the trip as a trained psychologist and on several occasions helped with diagnosing and treating locally acquired ailments.

Tom Guthrie is an avid sailor and experienced skipper specializing in sail trim. He likes to get up late, start slow, and taper off though often is sometimes motivated by the desire to reach our destination in time to enjoy the afternoon sun. Tom is an excellent host who attracts people who like to party late. Both the sailing experience and the life aboard is always a great event for those aboard Tom's boat.

Doug Rapkine is an excellent sailor and boat owner whose enthusiasm and helpfulness defines the standard for other sailors. He is an expert at all aspects of sailing, loves water sorts (especially wind surfing and scuba diving), and is always helpful - a true pleasure to sail with. Doug is up at sunrise swimming and does not miss any adventure opportunity. He believes that you can sleep when you are dead and that when on vacation it is a good idea to do everything possible.

Jim Clemens is most knowledgeable sailor and skipper-in-training. He loves sailing the British Virgin Islands, the Greek Islands, and the South Pacific. His plans to retire soon and spend a good part of his time aboard a boat exploring different island groups. He started sailing during a lessons week and found great pleasure in the life style and the exciting destinations that we have visited.

Dianna Clemens is a laid back sailor with excellent skills and a keen interest in all aspects of sailing. She enjoys exploring the local cultures and villages as much as working aboard during a day of good winds.

Mariam Nigohosian is a world traveler and enjoys exploring the many islands that we visit. She is interested in the variety of cultures and many activities available.

Carolanne Van Hise joined our sailing group last November in the Caribbean where she discovered the great life-style aboard the boats. There is always something to do and lots of fun people to do things with.

Anton Obeid ...

Life Aboard The Boats

life aboard…

Sailing... The duties aboard the boat were easy. It took about a half hour to get ready to get under way and another ten minutes to weigh and stow the anchor. Once we set our sails and cleaned up the lines we would stay on one point of sail for as long as five hours. We had some excellent music and the stereo speakers were strategically placed in the cockpit topside. Life was very, very good.

Relaxing...

After Sailing... We would relax and enjoy the late afternoon and early evening.

Rowing to Shore...

Hiking...

Fishing...

Partying...

Joy Baths... In the late afternoon or early evening we would bath in the ocean using sea soap or Joy. Joy dish detergent is one of the few soaps that will lather in the ocean. The joy bathing procedure was simple - jump in the ocean, lather up on the swim platform, back in the ocean to rinse off, then a quick sprits with fresh water would leave us squeaky clean just like home. The advantages are: (1) it's fun to bath with your friends, (2) it saves fresh boat water, and (3) it's cool. The disadvantages are: (1) you can see yourself in the reflection you're so clean, (2) you smell like fresh lemons, and (3) your hair is light and fluffy. Warning: Don't try this at home. It doesn't work in fresh water.

Epilog...

And there you have it...

Summary

Auckland abounds with attractive shops, restaurants, and entertainment. It is a cultural center of the South Pacific. Rotorua is a thermal wonderland with geysers, hot springs, and mud pools; abundant wildlife and parks; and, a traditional Maori Hangi "cooked feast" and concert. Queenstown in the South is picturesque with lakes, mountains, and rivers dominating the landscape awesome white water river trips. Mount Cook includes the most spectacular Peaks of the Southern Alps with permanent snow and glacier ice the home of the Tasman Glacier. The Milford Track is a famous hiking route near the Fiordland National Park and Lake Te Anau with spectacular glow-worm caves.

Recommendation: Just do it!

Tips

Passports are required and visas are not for Americans and most other nationals.

Weather in New Zealand is warm but not hot in the summer (70's F) and cool but not cold in the winter (50's F). The Bay of Islands is pleasant year around compared with the southern interior and mountains. We found that the mornings were a little cool and the afternoons were pleasantly warm. The evenings were great for sleeping and there were few bugs except for a few harbors.

Clothing is typical for summer with a light raincoat and a sweater or cardigan. We found the evenings during the first half of March to be cool making long pants and a light jacket appropriate.

Insurance is recommended for luggage and medical coverage for the duration of the trip. Be sure that you are covered in this part of the world. The New Zealand medical system will cover you in case of an accident but it will not cover you for illness. Nobody had additional insurance for our New Zealand adventure and we felt that it was an acceptable risk.

Activities include beach combing, snorkeling, jeeping, gourmet dining, scuba diving, wind surfing, horse back riding, shopping, all with numerous photo opportunities. We did not go horse back riding though there were several places that offered interesting rides. Scuba diving would have been most excellent at Poor Knights Island but the weather did not cooperate with us prior to arriving there so we did not have enough time.

Currency is the New Zealand dollar which is currently equal to about 65¢ US. It is best to bring half your money in Traveler's' Checks. In general, we brought very little US currency and were able to get local currency from the ATM machines.

Tipping is not a New Zealand custom, so don't. They have a great aversion to it.

Language spoken is English though some natives also speak Maori.