Thanksgiving Week - November 1995

We departed for Guadeloupe on Friday at 3:40 pm from Newark airport and flew to Point-A-Pitre on Guadeloupe, arriving just before midnight. We were on board with our gear stowed shortly after midnight. The next morning we did our final provisioning and were underway just before noon. We sailed to Les Saintes, explored the island, rented motor scooters, and spent two nights there. We then sailed to Antigua stopping in Basse Terre for water and stopping in Pigeon Island for dinner and relaxation. We continued to Antigua for a night sail arriving in the mid morning at Falmouth Harbour. We rafted for two nights and spent the third night at the dock in English Harbor. During the days we jeeped, swam, snorkeled, and explored the island. We then sailed back to Guadeloupe with stops in Deshaies and St. Francois.

The Boats

Awesome Boats... Our three catamarans were made by Jeantot Marine. They were 43' long and 23' wide with a displacement of 9 tons. The draft was 3'11" with a bridge clearance 64'. They had a water capacity was 210 gallons and a fuel capacity of 106 gallons. Each engine (there were two) were 50 hp. The cruising speed under power was 6.5 knots and 2,00 rpm. There were five cabins which were very comfortable for a boat that size. Each boat came equipped with a spinnaker and windsurfer. Masks, fins, and snorkels were included though many of us brought our own.

The catamarans were very well equipped, including: VHF radio, cellular telephone, radar, GPS, autopilot, and all the standard instruments. Additional equipment included harnesses and jacklines for our night sails. We brought hand held VHF radios as a backup and some brought their own harnesses and strobe lights in the unlikely event of rough weather and night sailing.

Culinary Delights... The galley was very well equipped and nicely organized. Preparing meals was quite easy. Aboard, we found a propane stove/oven, refrigerator, pots and pans, dishes, and silverware for ten people. In the opposite hull was a deep freeze thus providing very adequate storage space for our perishables. Our crew was very talented in the culinary art as we enjoyed the meals prepared aboard. In fact, we preferred to eat aboard when anchored in a secluded anchorage with beauty abounding.

Sleeping Accommodations... Our cabins were very comfortable. Each cabin has a double bed and a modest amount of storage space for our personal gear. There were additional storage areas in one of the hulls making it quite luxurious for a boat of this size. Because of the deck space, many people preferred to sleep topside. Favorite sleeping places included the trampline and aft cushions which were the almost the size of a twin bed. These boats were very well laid out compared to the other catamarans we've sailed. Half the time it would rain at night for about a half hour - we had the night rush for cover, lots of mumbling, and a few returning to the deck after the rain ceased.

The Crew

The crew members met at a party prior to our sailing trip and learned about the skippers' experience and style. Several of the crew members had already sailed together. After our pre-sail party, each person requested a boat (skipper). Each skipper requested a crew. With very few exceptions, the crew got their first choice and the skippers got their requested crew. There was a good balance of experience on each boat as well.

The Sail

At The Dock... On Saturday morning we found ourselves on the Catamaran Charters dock at Marina Bas Du Fort in Pointe A Pitre. A grocery store was nearby with an excellent selection and very reasonable prices. The dock area was surrounded by restaurants and there were shops a short walk away. We found the facilities excellent and the staff supportive (though we did have to twist their arms for a few extra sheets). We found very little wrong with the boats though there were a few minor items that we had to fix (typical).

Nabi Rafie... Nabi was (and is) very enthusiastic about sailing. Although he recently became a sailor, he has a natural aptitude and is very skilled at working all the positions on deck. He is an excellent helms person and has taken to navigation with accurate, clear charting throughout our trip. Nabi sets the standard for consideration and adeptness - he was enjoyable to share a yacht and an excellent cook. He is a pleasure to have aboard. Already, we are making plans to sail New Zealand and other world-class cruising areas.

Spinnaker Practice... At our first chance, we secured our gear, battoned down the hatches, and made way for the open water so we could practice tacking, jibing, and using the spinnaker. It would be a chance for the crew to gain a little experience at handling the boat and working the stations. For me, it was the first time I have used a boiler bag with a spinnaker. The spinnaker is encased in a tubular bag with the head polking out one end and the tack and clue out the other. The head is connected to the spinnaker halyard and the tack and clue are connected to a sheet and guy on either side of the boat. The guys run through a block on the tip of the bow and the sheets through a block at the beam of the boat. The lines are rigged in front of the forestay and are run back to the cockpit. The spinnaker is hoisted while still in the boiler bag which has a strong plastic mouth at the bottom. A control line runs up the seam of the bag to a block at the top and back down to the plastic mouth (used to raise the bottom of the bag thus freeing the spinnaker). The other end of the control line is connected to the plastic mouth which is used to lower the plastic mouth and encase the spinnaker in the boiler bag. It's fun, easy, and way-cool but not likely to be good for racing.

Michael Christoff... This was Michael's second sailing trip with me. He finds life aboard such a pleasure and the activities interesting and fun. On his first voyage, he frequently expressed his appreciation of the natural beauty of the islands and friendly people. He is always ready to learn about sailing, take a hike, or explore the underwater world. He scoffed when I said, "Lets go for a early morning hike, you can sleep when you're dead." He is a friend to anyone who wants to take advantage of the many adventure opportunities and and he enthusiastically shares the chores aboard. Michael has become a good friend during our sailing trips.

Snoopy II... Tony Frissora joined our Thanksgiving sail four years ago and met his wife Katy during the voyage. The next year, Tony skippered one of our boats and during Thanksgiving dinner in some God forgotton islands he proposed to Katy. They married a year later and continue to skipper during our Thanksgiving sails. Tony is a very talented sailor and enjoys racing in the summers in New Jersey. Both Katy and Tony work for AT&T and love the sea. They both have become good friends and traveling companions to many of the people who joined his boat this year. Both Tony and Katy do an excellent job organizing their boat acitivities and everyone always has a good time when aboard. We enjoy sailing together - it's fun to cruise close with your good friends. Tony is one of my most trusted skippers.

Les Saintes... There was much to do on Les Saintes. We went to shore to rent scooters and stopped for breackfast consisting of bagettes, coffee, and juice (typical French breakfast). We then went to the rental shop and got scooters and helmets. Our next mission was to explore the island and discover the beaches. We rode through town and up a hill to the restored Fort Napoleon, built in 1867. It stands on a hill to the north of the village with a commanding view of the harbor. The top half is a well tended garden of cacti and succulents and there is a museum inside. Baie de Pontpierre is on the windward side of Terre D'en Haut. It is protected from the east by two rocky islands whose sheer cliffs rise to over 100 feet. The beach is shaded by palm trees, seagrapes, and almonds. The beach is part of a national park and is very crowded. The anchorage is never crowded and very picturesque. Ashore is an excellent hike up a nearby hill. The windward side is very dramatic with rocky cliffs and breaking seas. The town is a short distance and can be walked in less than half an hour.

Lauryn DeGeorge... Lauryn called to inquire about this Caribbean sailing adventure and the next thing I knew she was signed up. We talked for a while about adventures and I knew that she was perfect for the Club. Lauryn is organized and loves people - she became friends with everyone aboard. Her culinary engineering skills are beyond reproach and she is able to easily improvise in the ships galley. Her helmsmanship was quite good for a first-time sailor and she enjoyed every aspect of sailing. Already she is interested in more sailing trips and has encouraged her close friends to join the Club. Expect to see her on many more adventures.

Work Aboard... The duties aboard the boat were easy. It took about a half hour to get ready to get under way and another ten minutes to way the anchor. Once we set our sails and cleaned up the lines we would stay on one point of sail for several hours. We had some excellent music and the stereo speakers were strategically placed in the cockpit topside. We had a cooler topside so we did not have to go below for refreshments. The cats did not heal much so most of the cruises were quite pleasant. Life was very, very good.

After Sailing... We would relax and enjoy the late afternoon and early evening. In addition to the tramps on the bow, we could string a hammock - quite pleasant. Here we are moored at Pigeon Island, the sea is gently rocking our boat, and the warm breeze makes life excellent. We savor the evening sunsets after a long day's sail. Laura Herkert is an excellent crew member and enjoys sailing, the islands, and the fun people. She enthusiastically helps with the sailing and helps make life aboard a pleasure. There are a few excellent places to string a hammock aboard (you can bring your favorite hammock) and often a beach scene where the hammock will be a great comfort.

Rafted Together... We rafted our boats in Falmouth Harbor in Antigua. The anchorage is known for being well protected and perfect for large rafts. Being connected, it was a great party platform and enabled our entire group to socialize with each other. We had dinner aboard our own boats and then we would visit the other boats and party into the wee early hours of the morning. We stayed rafted together here for two nights. Falmouth Harbor is conveniently located near taxi's, rental cars, restaurants, and the customs office. The wind is quite good for beginning windsurfers. Nearby Nelson's Dockyard National Park provide an interesting diversion with assortments of tee-shirts and gifts.

Joy Baths... In the late afternoon or early evening we would bath in the ocean using sea soap or Joy. Joy dish detergent is one of the few soaps that will lather in the ocean. The joy bathing procedure was simple - jump in the ocean, lather up on the swim platform, back in the ocean to rinse off, then a quick spritz with fresh water would leave us squeeky clean just like home. The advantages are: (1) it's fun to bath with your friends, (2) it saves fresh boat water, and (3) it's cool. The disadvantages are: (1) you can see youself in the reflection you're so clean, (2) you smell like fresh lemons, and (3) your hair is light and fluffy. Warning: Don't try this at home. It doesn't work in fresh water.

Antigua... We had great fun exploring Antigua by jeep. Most of the people rented jeeps to explore the coast and visit some of the small towns. A few stayed aboard, relaxed, and enjoyed the water. The roads were well paved all around the island and they lead to some most beautiful beaches. We first went to visit the St. James Club in Mamora Bay but it was closed for repairs due to the recent hurricane. Some areas were devastated by the strong winds though locals were working hard to get everything ready for the season. Awesome Beaches were unmatched in beauty - large crescent shaped bays with bright white sand and turquoise water. The water was very comfortable and refreshing. Our mission was to seek out new beaches and walk barefoot on as many as possible. They were all very clean and had very few people there. Restaurants and bars were always nearby and shady trees provided shelter from the hot early afternoon sun. It was perfect for your hammock and a place for the beach lover (Mike Lane you'd love it here). There were seveal beaches like this one but nothing matched the natural beauty of Green Island which was a small, secluded island with prestine anchorages in coves surrounded by beaches with a few coral reefs just off the point. We could anchor our boats a hundred feet off the beach and snorkle right from the boat. Green Island is paradise.

Devil's Bridge... Doug is a magician with powers that are strongest in the southern latitudes. He has command of the ocean and all within. Today he demonstrated his super-human powers by making water come out of the rocks. Although he is 5'4" you should not be tricked into thinking that he is a little munchkin that can be scoffed at. He is a jolly person most of the time but turns canibal during the blue moon. Doug will always help you when you are in trouble, but he does eat a lot of canned fish.

Sailing Back to Guadeloupe... We started back to eastern side of Guadeloupe after three days on Antigua. The boats were close-hauled, the wind was just over 20 knots, and the seas were 8-10 feet. Our speed was about 6 knots with the sails double reefed. After an hour, we decided to change our destination to Deshaies on the northwestern corner of Guadeloupe. This would put us on a close haul and we could do about 8 knots or better. What a ride!

Deshaies... Our afternoon and evening in Deshaies was quite pleasant. The town is very small with a single main road that runs along the shore. On either side of the road are shops and restaurants. The people are very friendly and we all decided it was one of our favorite towns. The bay had some excellent winds and the water was realtively calm thus our windsurfer fanatics enjoyed the the anchorage.

Sunset

Stan King... Stan King has joined several sailing trips and has become an experienced navigator. He is a good helmsman and an excellent navigator. Stan brough some excellent charts and can sleep under any circumstances.

Morning Sail... We departed Deshaies at 4 am to sail to St. Francis and almost everybody was asleep. We had pleasant winds and mellow seas and the early morning sail was very peaceful. The sunrise at about 6 am came over the island of Guadeloupe and we made good time under power. We were excited about our next, and last, stop - St. Francois - a quaint little harbour town with a narrow entrance through coral reefs and shallow water. We anchored in the anchorage just outside the harbour and spent the afternoon snorkeling. In the late afternoon we dinghied into the harbour and shopped a little before dinner. Most excellent! That night, there was a grand celebration on shore and a major fireworks display that was quite impressive. We were all relaxing on the foredeck enjoying the show. We made an early morning departure for Pointe-A-Pitre with one last spinnaker run to end the trip.

Bon Voyage...

Best Wishes... We all wish you the best of luck on your adventures and hope that our paths will cross somewhere in the near future. Nothing is more precious than friendship and the memories of beautiful islands and warm people.