Captain's Log

Monday 4 May - Raiatea to Bora Bora:  We awoke at 6 am and were almost ready to sail by 7 am.  We went to the dock to obtain a few missing items and by 8 am our engines were running.  Two of our three yachts were slowly circling in the bay.  At 9 am, with Rachelle at the helm, we were all underway and we headed out the bay and north inside the lagoon.  At Uturoa, two of the yachts docked for provisions while we continued north-northwest towards Tahaa and out to sea for our passage to Bora Bora.   It was 9:45 am when we left the other yachts.  The wind was light and there was a broken layer of clouds.  Our boat made 8.5 knots under power towards Bora Bora.  We arrived at the Bora Bora Yacht Club at 1:45 pm and found a beautiful anchorage just to the west of the Hotel Bora Bora on the south side of the island.  We anchored in 20 feet of water on a sand bottom.  We were pleased to note that we had about 200 feet of chain rode and a plough anchor.  The windlass was strong and lively showing no strain as it lowered the anchor.  Our anchor was firmly set by 2:30 pm and our crew was already working harmoniously.  At 3 pm, Rachelle, Michael, Cathy, Bob, and Martha went to shore with me in the tender to call Richard on Maupiti.  Richard is a native in Maupiti who would be able to tell us if the passage would be accessible the following morning.   We planned to arrive at the entrance to Maupiti the following morning at 11 am.  Richard wanted us to call on the radio by 10 am with our position and estimated time of arrival.  We were back aboard by 5 pm where we found the other two yachts anchored nearby.  We spent the rest of the afternoon snorkeling.  We ate aboard and fell asleep by 8:30 pm.

Supplemental:  One of our goals was to sail to Maupiti which is about 25 miles west of Bora Bora.  Maupiti is reported to be very beautiful and void of tourists.  It has a long, narrow channel with a strong current that meets the sea.   In rough weather, the entrance to the channel is very turbulent and often not passable. 

Tuesday 5 May - Bora Bora to Maupiti:  We awoke at 5 am and were off the hook by 6 am, almost ready to go.  Our last yacht was underway by 6:15 am and we headed north to the exit passage from Bora Bora.  We were doing 5 knots as the other boats were slightly behind.  We had clear skies and calm winds.  The lagoon was dead calm and the temperature was in the mid to upper 70's.  We were at sea by 6:45 am with sea swells about 5 feet.  We set our main sail and motor sailed together at a comfortable 6.5 knots.  At 10:15 am we contacted Richard on channel 68 and arrived at the entrance at 10:45.  We were escorted by 12 bottlenose dolphin who played in our bow wake as we circled and waited for the last yacht to catch up.   At 11 am we were at the entrance to the Maupiti lagoon and we followed Richard through the entrance to Maupiti.  The ever-present outbound current is created by the surf crashing over the coral barrier reef.  It can exit only through the channel.  The sea swells come from the south to meet the outbound current.   Large waves and turbulent waters are often found at the entrance.  Once inside, the water is much calmer though the channel is very narrow and marked with buoys.   It requires careful navigation and local knowledge in places.  Richard charges $20 per boat to provide pilot escort.  He is also quite handy at setting up dinner and live music at a nearby restaurant.  He comes highly recommended by the charter company and, from our experience, is well worth the investment.

The weather was sunny, 85°F, very light wind.  We stuck together and followed Richard closely like little ducklings after their mother.  The channel was well marked and the shoals and sand bars were clearly visible (it's easy when the weather is perfect).  The channel provides a very beautiful passage between two long an narrow islands liked with beaches of golden sand surrounded by light turquoise water.  The sun was shining brightly to show us the underwater coral hazards.  The journey into paradise took a half hour as the towering volcanic island of Maupiti grew closer.  We passed the town along the southwestern corner of the island.  Richard directed us towards a most excellent anchorage by town, near a large sand bar.  We anchored in about 15 feet of water on a sand bottom.  We chatted with Richard for a while, then shared our findings with our companion crews, made plans for dinner which would include local food and a three person band.  We ate lunch.

The afternoon was spent  on a snorkeling safari via our tender.  Most of us went in three dinghies to the northern pass of Avaava Vaiatoti which was full of coral heads in 2 meters of water.  Our route there would take us across a shallow area where we had to get out and float the dinghies in a half foot of water.  We motored in 3 feet of water then had to evade the coral heads as the water got slightly deeper.   As we entered the pass we discovered that most of the coral heads were dead but it was still a fun place to snorkel.  One of our tenders ran out of gas so we anchored it at the entrance to the pass and explored the second pass where we anchored and swam.   The water was very warm, like a bath tub.  There were some fish but not as much as hoped.  Apparently, a major cyclone came through and damaged the coral beyond repair.  After an hour of underwater exploration, we loaded up the dinghies and headed back to the yachts.

That night we all ate ashore.  They had prepared a great feast for us that included raw fish and vegetable salad, roast duck, pork, and fruit salad for desert.   Three native Maupitians played music for us all through dinner after which we danced.  The service was quite excellent and the cost was only $35 each which we felt was a good bargain.  We went back to the boat early and were asleep around 9:30.   It was a long day and rest was welcome.

Wednesday 6 May - Maupiti:  We awoke early to a beautiful Maupiti sunrise, expecting to get an early start to hike up the mountain in the cool morning.  It began raining so we hung out while our enthusiasm grew and grew until we decided to go for it.  At 8 am we went to shore and the rain stopped.  We hiked through town and started around the island instead of climbing the mountain trail due to a high probability of thick mud.   Walking through the small town, we came across a small store.  It had about three small aisles and a humble selection of groceries and other items.  We all found jelly rubber sandals that many of the natives wore and we purchased them for an amazingly low price of $9.  We continued our hike around the island and found a most excellent beach across from a motu (small island).  The water appeared shallow and crossing with a picnic lunch could be the mission of a future trip to the islands.  Back on the road we continued our hike which lasted for a few miles.  The last half hour of hiking was under the hot noon sun.  We approached town and found the restaurant where we ate the night before.   I ordered a huge bowl of raw fish for $8.50 which was enough for four people.   The fish is prepared with shredded vegetables, seasoning, and a light sauce.   Others ordered chicken and rice.  We shared our meals.  We were back aboard our yachts by 2 pm for relaxation and swimming.  Several of our crew members swam to the sandbar where we walked to the nearby motu looking for shells.  The shore was full of interesting aquatic life and several perfect shells.  Back to the boat, then back to shore, some made phone calls, some shopped, and Michael played basketball with the locals.  In the late afternoon, the whole town comes outside to play bocce, volleyball, basket ball, and socialize as the temperature becomes much more pleasant.  Back aboard, we had dinner and entertained Jim's boat until about 9:30 pm.  It was a long day and rest was welcome.  Maupiti is one of the most beautiful and charming islands that we have visited.

Thursday 7 May - Maupiti to Bora Bora:  We awoke at 6 am.   Prepared for our sail.  Richard came by to say goodbye at 7 am and to wish us well.  Good weather began the day.  Our boat and Jim's were underway by 7:25 am.   At 8 am we were in safe water though the channel exit was turbulent like a washing machine.  It was easy to see that rough weather would make the entrance not-passable.   There were towering cumulous clouds in all quadrants of the sky.  At 8:50 am it started to rain as we motor sailed with the jib unfurled.  The crew huddled under the Bimini as it rained all the way to Bora Bora, heavy at times.  Our 11:50 am arrival at the entrance channel to Bora Bora was welcome as Bob and I navigated between the heavy surf breaking on either side of the channel entrance.  We motored to the anchorage near town where we planned to get bottled water and some additional provisions.  We anchored in 40 feet of water.  The rain stopped.  Bob and I stayed aboard while the crew went to town.  Jim's boat arrived about a half hour later and anchored nearby.   We took the dinghy to the nearby fuel pumps where we got dinghy fuel.  The crew returned by about 4 pm and we motored around the corner to a small, beautiful bay on the northern part of the island and anchored in about 30 feet of water.  Jim was lucky as a local fisherman offered one of his moorings that he had free.   A most excellent place to spend the night.  There were few houses on shore and it was very quiet and peaceful.  The stars were brilliant and pierced the black night with a sparkling brightness that became faint with the rising moon.  It was here that Patti joined our crew where she would live the life of a humble monk and enjoy the remainder of the trip working the lines and playing sailor.   By now, our boat was running smoothly and everyone was getting along marvelously.

Friday 8 May - Bora Bora and Taurere Motu:  Awoke at 6:20 am.  Stina and Rachelle at the helm, we motored to the southeastern part of the lagoon.  Our depth gauge was reading 22.5 feet most of the way in the shallow eastern part of the lagoon.  The eastern side of Bora Bora gets shallow in many places.  We first had to navigate directly to a landmark consisting of three palm trees that stick up a little above the rest.  From a distance it is barely visible but with a lens they become quite apparent.  We continued south for a couple miles and towards a hotel built over the water.   The cabanas were surrounded by turquoise water, each with a balcony, stairs, and some with a small dock.  As we passed the last reef by Motu Piti Aau, we touched the sand bottom and quickly turned to escape the encroaching sea bottom.  We navigated south through the shallow water to the most southeastern spot where we set our anchor in 15 feet of water, though the depth gauge read 22.5 feet.  Humph!  We were on the hook by 10 am.  We relaxed.   Ate an early lunch and prepared for a snorkeling safari.  Our mission would soon be complete as we prepared to snorkel through some of the most amazing coral gardens on the island.  A few of us had done this before and were looking forward to the gardens just on the other side of Motu Piti Aau.  With our snorkeling gear handy, we set out in two dinghies (fourteen people) to the small island.  We beached the dinghies and walked east along the shore.  At last, we entered the water and worked our way through the coral heads in shallow water.   We swam through narrow, twisty passageways where the current was strong and the only way to go was downstream.   We sped through the coral gardens with little effort as the water took us through the deeper part of the maze.  We saw lots of coral and fish.  The ride through the coral was awesome and incredible.  But short.  We did it again.  Then we dinghied to the outer reef where we snorkeled for the last hour of the afternoon in more beautiful coral.  We returned to the boat shortly after 4 pm.  Took joy baths.  Had drinks.  Cooked dinner.  Set the stove on fire.  Put the fire out with fire extinguishers.  And spent the next couple hours cleaning up.   It was, nonetheless, fun.  And, another excellent day came to a close as the veil of sleep overtook us.

Saturday 9 May - Bora Bora:  Awoke at 6:20 am.   Another beautiful day in paradise.  No rain.  Anchors up at 8 am and were were motoring around to the anchorage near the Hotel Bora Bora, perhaps a 1.5 hour trip through the inner channel of the lagoon.  Our route would take us through a very narrow and treacherous passage marked by closely spaced buoys and lined with coral, rock and shallow water.  It took a couple hours longer that expected though the beauty of the lagoon is overwhelming.  We had mixed feelings - some wanted to stay in the lagoon and snorkel and relax while others were ready to continue our adventures.  The view from our anchorage in the lagoon was spectacular.  We were at our new anchorage in 15 feet of water on a sand bottom (again) by early afternoon.  We went to the Hotel Bora Bora and reserved rental cars for the next morning.  Back aboard the yacht we swam and bathed.  By the late afternoon, we were at the bar in the Hotel Bora Bora with dinner reservations at 7 pm.  We walked along the beach and Cathy and I got a ride via Tom's dinghy to his boat where we enjoyed a very beautiful sunset (see the picture at the end of this page).  Back to the beach, hotel, and restaurant we sat for dinner.  We had an excellent meal for under $40 though some others paid more than $50.   We were back aboard between 10 and 11 after drinks at Bloody Mary's.  It was another great night without rain.  Almost every anchorage provides spectacular views and plenty of opportunity to snorkel or scuba dive.

Sunday 10 May - Bora Bora Road Trip:  We were ready to go ashore at 8 am with plans to tour the island by car.  Starting at the Hotel Bora Bora, some of us rented cars and some scooters.  One of our cars had a flat tire which caused a slight delay while we waited for another car to be delivered.  While waiting, one of the other groups took our laundry to the Bora Bora Yacht Club where it would be washed by the end of the day.  Our first stop was a Tahitian church, which we learned from our initial briefing at the charter base to be well worth a visit.  Service started at 9:45 and ended just before noon.  The service was conducted in Tahitian and there was a lot of singing which we all enjoyed though we did not understand any of the words.  The church was full of colorfully dressed Tahitians who sang proudly in small groups when it was their turn.  They sat together in family groups dressed in their family fashion.  After church, we had some ice cream and then began our road tour clockwise around the island.  Our first side trip was a road that went towards the interior of the island.  The views of Bora Bora from the road were spectacular.  The Tahitians are avid fishermen who take great care of their handmade boats.  Every boat is neatly raised out of the water when not in use so the hull can be cleaned and remain free of algae.  As we continued, the road shortly turned to dirt and then became full of deep ruts so we parked and continued on foot.  After about 20 minutes of hiking up the road ended at a beautiful artisan's house with a beautiful panoramic view.  We returned to the cars and continued our road tour, stopping by a roadside fruit stand to buy fruit and soda, passing a small hotel and restaurant with a long dock, and ended our tour at the Hotel Sofitel Marara where we had lunch and swam in the pool.  The food was excellent and quite reasonably priced.  We met the others at 5 pm by the Hotel Bora Bora while Rachelle continued to the Bora Bora Yacht Club to pick up our laundry.  She returned to the boat by 7 pm.   Steve, Stina, and Michael rented bikes for the day and rode around the island.  Several folks were interested in hiking over the mountain along a trail; however, it was too hot by the time we all got started.  Much of their bike ride was in the early afternoon heat and quite hot.  It is a good idea to exercise early in the morning just as the sun is rising as the day gets hot quickly.  During our evening discussion, we agreed that the island was worth a visit.  A slight majority would prefer to spend more time exploring the underwater world along the barrier reefs and perhaps investigating some of the anchorages near the motus.

Monday 11 May - Bora Bora to Tahaa:  Awoke at 6 am.   Underway by 7 am.  In safe water by 7:40 am.  Partly cloudy with a gentle breeze from the southeast.  At 8:45 we set our sails and made 6 knots in a 12 knot breeze.  We sailed for a couple hours though we were a bit to the north of our desired course.  We motored the last hour and were on the ferry dock of Tahaa by 11:45 am.  At 11:55 am we learned that the fuel dock closed from noon to 2 pm.   The attendant went home for lunch and would not stay for any amount of bribery.   We filled the boat with water (636 liters of our 950 liter tanks) and walked down the road to a store for a few provisions.  At the appointed hour of 2 pm we got fuel, taking on 153 liters of fuel.  We filled our dinghy fuel containers.  We were off the dock by 2:45 pm making way to the Hibiscus hotel and restaurant.  The water off the restaurant is very deep and they have five moorings.  The three of us picked up moorings by 4 pm.  We were surprised to find them available.  We made 7 pm dinner reservations for all twenty-one people.  Dinner was most excellent and we finished around 10 pm.  Lots of great drinks were consumed.   Leo, the proprietor was very friendly and an excellent host.  He is French and has been in Tahaa for the past 10 years before which he was in Papeete, Tahiti for 15 years.  We checked out their bungalows which rent for $80 per couple per night and $10 extra for each additional person.  This is definitely a way-cool hideaway for those interested in a terrestrial based, secluded adventure.

Dinner at the Hibiscus is quite an event.  Leo, the proprietor, is an excellent host and his family helps cook.  The food is fresh and excellently prepared in Hibiscus/Tahitian style.  The menu included poisson cru (marinated fish), mahi mahi, jack fish, carrots, potatoes, rice, bread, and lamb.  There are flags from around the world hanging from the ceiling and a guest book that provides most excellent reading.

Tuesday 12 May - Tahaa:  Awoke at 6:30 am.  Mostly sunny, 85°F, gentle breeze.  Our whole gang together was a rare occasion.  We prepared for a land tour by bus ($20 a piece).   At 8:30 we would meet ashore.  I contacted Stephanie from Stardust and set up a linen exchange for sometime in the afternoon.  At 9 am we departed in a bus with Leo aboard to lead the tour.  We passed a few interesting places along the shore before arriving at a small village.   Here, we saw the high school which they called the "college."  It was the only one on the island.  Across the street children were playing at the elementary school.  It was a happy place.  Leo took us to visit a vanilla plantation and we stopped to visit a small local farmer.  Leo gave us a lecture on growing the local plants and vegetables.  The farmer showed us around his farm and we bought some of the biggest, sweetest grapefruits and tropical fruits.  The bus drove ahead and we walked along the road so we could see the farmland.  It was lush and full of fruit trees and cultivated vegetable rows.   The farmers live a humble life surrounded by natural beauty.  We next rode the bus along a road that cut across the mountain to the other side.  Before we reached the top, the bus stopped and turned around while we continued on foot.  A mudslide had consumed the road during the most recent cyclone.  The view from the top of the hill was majestic.  Back aboard the bus, we headed back the way we came, stopping at a small shop and visiting a pearl farm.  Here, the pearl farmer gave us a 20 minute presentation on growing and cultivating pearls.  The pearls take seven years to grow to a size typically used in jewelry.  Many have imperfections and a few are perfectly shaped and beautiful.  Unfortunately, the recent cyclone destroyed much of the farmer's pearls.  Continuing on, we made stops at a roadside shop and grocery store, returning to the boat shortly after noon for lunch.   We soon met Stephanie with our fresh linens.  We then sailed in a pleasant breeze in the lagoon and enjoyed the speed and comfort of our excellent sailing Jeanneau 525.  The wind was perfect, the sky was mostly sunny with some broken to scattered clouds.  Sailing in the lagoon, which is bigger than the bays back home, is ideal -- the barrier reef defends us from high seas and waves while the wind blows strong.  We returned to the moorings at the Hibiscus as the light was getting dim.  There was a nice breeze making sleep quite pleasant though it did rain at night making it a bit hot below.  It was another excellent day in paradise.

Wednesday 13 May - Tahaa to Huahaine:  Awoke at 6 am.   Rained last night.  At 7:15 am we received a turtle that we named Spike, a.k.a. #222-C.  Leo buys turtles from the fishermen.  He cares for them and then returns them to sea.   They are becoming endangered, so Leo has a program to protect them.  We bought a turtle from Leo's program to release in safe water.  Cool.  At 7:30 am rain began.  At 7:40 am we had a grapefruit feast.   At 8:10 am we got underway.  At 8:20 am the rain ended.  We were outside the channel by 8:30.   When we were a couple miles outside the channel, we set the turtle free.  He was a pretty big dude and liked to flap around a lot.   He was heavy and did not like the noise and vibration of the engine.  Shortly after 9 am we were sailing and later furled our sails by 1 pm for the last hour of our journey.  We arrived in Huahaine and anchored by 2 pm outside of the northern town in 15 feet of water.  We were right off the beach at Bali Hai hotel.   Very beautiful with coral off the stern of our boat.  We snorkeled and saw a moray eel and relaxed at the hotel.  We reserved cars for the next morning and retired to a relaxing dinner aboard.  We set a second anchor before sunset to be sure that we would not swing over the coral between our boat and the beach.  Late that evening, we had a little encounter session led by Michael.

Thursday 14 May - Huahaine:  Awoke at 6 am to enjoy the early morning sunrise.  The anchorage is very beautiful.  At 8:30 am we were at the car rental.  At 9:15 am we were cruising.  Stopped at the Marre on the northern tip of the island and took lots of photos.  We saw hotels with cabanas built over the water, beautiful lagoons, and majestic vistas.  The lagoon tour boat slowly motored around the island in the same direction that we headed.  After driving south along the eastern coast (we drove clockwise), we crossed the bridge to Huahaine Iti.  It was a very beautiful island.  The beaches and the lagoon along the south may be the prettiest of all the islands.  We stopped to photograph some paragliders flying off a ridge on the southern shore.   The southern lagoon is perhaps the most beautiful of all the lagoons that we saw.  Later, we met Michael on a moped.  He was exploring every nook and cranny on the island and proclaimed the island our favorite.  No disputes.  We crossed the bridge back to the main island and had lunch in Local Motion which is a fruit and veggie restaurant.  We took a hike after lunch up the hill where we enjoyed nice panoramic views of the island.  From here, we could see some of the devastation created by the recent cyclone.  The hike was interesting because the restaurant provided us with a small map and descriptions of the vegetation and trees.  The plants and trees were numbered corresponding to the descriptions in the brochure.  After our hike, we drove back to town where we went shopping.  Then, at 4 pm, we returned the cars and went snorkeling by the yacht.   We prepared for dinner, ate ashore at the Bali Hai restaurant, and chatted after dinner aboard the boat.  We were glad that we visited the island in lieu of the cyclone damage and the discouragement from others.  It was not as bad as we expected.

Friday 15 May - Huahaine to Raiatea:  Awoke at 6:30 am.   Our plan was to shop in town and return to the boat by 9:45 and set sail by 10.   We actually made it out by 10:30 and motor sailed for a little over an hour when we lost all our wind.  With our sails furled we made 9.5 knots under power arriving at the Stardust marina by 1 pm.  Steve caught a Bonita right outside the entrance channel tot he lagoon.  After mooring, we took a dinghy ride up the river where we discovered a way-cool journey.  The river becomes very narrow and is sufficiently deep to run the motor.  The trees hang over the river as it narrows to make it like a jungle ride in an amusement park.  Our dinghy motor started to over heat so we turned around and paddled out of the river into the bay where we started our motor and rode back to the boat.  We completed our cleaning, check-out paperwork, and got our deposit returned.  That night, we dined near the marina where the food was most excellent and reasonably priced.  We were back aboard by 9 am.  Some people packed, some slept, some stayed up late chatting.  It was hot, the wind was calm, and it rained briefly shortly after midnight.  We would awake early for our flight home.

Saturday 16 May - Trip Home:  We awoke at 4:45 am and rendezvoused on the dock for our 6 am bus to the airport.  The flight home was long and uneventful.

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Memory...

My most powerful memories are images of our great friendship, peaceful anchorages, and beautiful sunsets.  Thank you for being you!

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